楼主:康优惠 时间:2019年09月16日 07:23:31 点击:0 回复:0
It started with Natalie Massenet. The Net-a-Porter founder and British Fashion Council chairman was spotted pairing a leopard print Marc Jacobs skirt with a leopard print Valentino Rockstud clutch at New York Fashion Week; the following week in London Kate Moss was seen front row at Topshop’s show in a pair of black leopard print Hysteric Glamour jeans, then, at Paris Fashion Week, stylist Giovanna Battaglia turned up in a vintage early 1990s leopard print Ala?a dress at the designer’s retrospective opening at the Palais Galliera.一切皆肇事于娜塔莉?马斯内(Natalie Massenet),这位Net-a-Porter网店创始人兼英国时装协会主席身穿马克?雅可布(Marc Jacobs)豹纹衬衣,手拎华伦天奴(Valentino) Rockstud豹纹手提包现身纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week);接下来的一周,在伦敦,凯特?莫斯(Kate Moss)身穿日本Hysteric Glamour潮牌牛仔裤就坐于Topshop时装发布会前排;而后的巴黎时装周(Paris Fashion Week),设计师乔瓦娜?巴塔吉利亚(Giovanna Battaglia)身穿上世纪90年代初的老款阿亚拉(Ala?a)裙装现身在加列拉宫(Palais Galliera)举行的个人作品回顾展开幕式。By the time Andrea Mitchell, N News’ chief foreign affairs correspondent, wore a black leopard print trench while delivering her nightly report on the Syrian crisis the trend was official: animal spots are big news.到全球广播公司新闻台(N News)首席外交事务记者安德莉亚?米切尔(Andrea Mitchell)身穿黑色豹纹风衣、在晚间新闻播报叙利亚危机时,整个时尚潮流算是尘埃落定:动物斑纹装登上了头条新闻。“With the amount of prints women are now dressing in, leopard really is the ‘new black’,” says stylist Isabel Dupré, whose equivalent to the little black dress is an Isabel Marant leopard print number she considers her fail-safe go-to. “There is something that s expensive and ‘fashion’ in the print when it is worn right,” she adds. “Most of the time it’s as timeless as wearing black.”“随着女士穿着动物斑纹装渐趋增多,豹纹成为名符其实的流行趋势,”设计师伊莎贝尔?杜普雷(Isabel Dupré)说,她的“小黑礼”(Little black dress)是伊莎贝尔?玛兰(Isabel Marant)豹纹装,她认为它能适用于各种场合。“豹纹装只要穿着得体,就会透出奢侈与‘时尚’气息,”她补充道。“多数情况下,穿黑色豹纹装从不落伍。”“Leopard print really is the new classic,” agrees Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Women today should look at leopard as a great investment piece and not something to shy away from because it’s too bold or too old or too young.” Helen David, head of womenswear at Harrods, says that because designers have offered leopard print in paler tones for autumn, it has become a more versatile day-to-evening option. “This season leopard print has firmly established itself,” says David, who bought everything from Roland Mouret’s multicoloured leopard eveningwear to a 3.1 Phillip Lim leather biker jacket with leopard print sleeves for the department store.“豹纹表现的是真正的新古典风格,”萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)高级时尚总监珂丽恩?谢林(Colleen Sherin)对此表示赞同。“如今的女士应把豹纹装视作奇货可居之物,不能因它太过醒目、老气横秋或是朝气蓬勃而有意规避它。”哈罗德百货(Harrods)女装部总管海伦?大卫(Helen David)说。由于设计师在今秋时装季推出淡色调豹纹装,它已成为左右逢源的饰,能满足工作与社交的各种需求。“这个秋冬季,豹纹装已经牢牢地在时尚界站稳阵脚,”大卫说,她本人也购买了各种豹纹装,从罗兰?穆雷(Roland Mouret)的多色豹纹晚装到菲利普?林3.1(Phillip Lim 3.1)为百货公司设计的豹纹袖款托夹克,品类繁多。She is not the only one. Walk into a Burberry shop anywhere in the world and you will be faced by a plethora of animal spots; leopard print sleeves on a gabardine trench, a pair of metal bow-front patterned pumps, leopard mink trim on a tan drawstring leather bag, a below-the-knee calfskin printed pencil skirt, matching gloves or even an outsized leopard print umbrella.类似者大有人在。走进全球任何一家柏利(Burberry)门店,看到的是形形色色的动物斑纹装——带豹纹袖的华达呢风衣、弓背形金属图案的宫廷鞋(脚面露出较多,没有绑定固定部分,但脚踝部可有系带)、豹貂皮饰边的棕褐色拉带皮包、中长款小牛皮纹紧身窄裙,它们用手套甚至特大号豹纹雨伞搭配,相得益彰。There is no doubt then, that the preferred print of screen sirens Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor – not to mention 73-year-old Raquel Welch, who wore a leopard print dress at a pre-Emmy awards party last month – is making a roaring comeback. And the responses of designers and retailers suggest that it’s here to stay.毫无疑问,昔日影视界时尚女王索菲娅?罗兰(Sophia Loren)与伊丽莎白?泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)钟爱的豹纹装正强势回归——更甭提73岁的拉奎尔?韦尔奇(Raquel Welch)了,她身穿豹纹裙出席了上月的艾美奖预热晚会(pre-Emmy awards party)。设计师与零售商反响强烈,表明豹纹装前景一片看好。Eva Chen, Lucky magazine editor-in-chief, calls it the “Jenna Lyons effect”, crediting the J Crew president and creative director with “informing women on how to mix and match sailor stripes, animal prints and out-there florals as you would a black or grey T-shirt”.《Lucky》时尚杂志华裔主编陈怡桦(Eva Chen)称之为“詹娜?莱昂斯效应”,她把这归功于时尚品牌J Crew总裁兼创意总监詹娜?莱昂斯(Jenna Lyons),对方“向女士灌输如何把水手条纹、动物斑纹以及异乎寻常的花纹等混搭至黑色或灰色T恤衫上”。“It’s a print that real women, not the red carpet divas, have made their own little by little,” says Stefano Gabbana, who recalls that leopard print dresses were considered daring – scandalous, even – when he co-founded Dolce amp; Gabbana in 1985. “For us, leopard print is universal, irrespective of age or profession,” adds his design partner Domenico Dolce.“豹纹装是‘真女人’(而非歌剧女主角)一点一滴打拼出来的天地,”斯特凡诺?加巴纳(Stefano Gabbana)说,他回忆自己1985年与多梅尼科?多尔切(Domenico Dolce)合创杜嘉班纳(Dolce amp; Gabbana)品牌时,穿豹纹装被视为惊世骇俗之举——甚至可以说有伤风化。“我们觉得豹纹装适合各个年龄段、各种职业,”加巴纳的设计伙伴多尔切补充道。Fellow Italian designer Roberto Cavalli has long had a love for these patterns. “Nature created the animal print and I just put my own twist on it,” he says. “What I appreciate most about leopard is its strong graphic identity that also lends itself to interpretation. As long as you wear it with confidence and ease, leopard will always be empowering.”他俩的意大利同行罗伯特?卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)长久以来一直很喜欢这些豹纹图样。“大自然的造化缔造了这些动物斑纹,本人只是稍作改动而已,”他说。“我最欣赏豹纹,因为它能很好地通过图样体现穿着者的身份,还能起到一定的诠释作用。只要自信而轻松地穿着豹纹装,它永远显得那么英姿飒爽。”Empowering it may be, but it is best to t carefully while wearing the print in a business setting. “The more black you pair it with, the more that it will help mute the print but still allow it to flash,” says Alexandra Lebenthal, president and chief executive of municipal bond dealer Lebenthal amp; Company, who still counts her 10-year-old Equipment leopard print jacket as a wardrobe staple.尽管英姿飒爽,但出席商务活动时,穿着豹纹装走起路来要尽可能谨小慎微。“你搭配其它饰的颜色越黑,就越能中和豹纹装带来的咄咄逼人气势,但仍可让豹纹装光夺目,”市政债券交易公司Lebenthal amp; Company总裁兼CEO亚历桑德罗?莱贝撒尔(Alexandra Lebenthal)说,她仍把穿了10年的Equipment豹纹夹克视作自己的“镇箱之宝”。At Saks, Sherin advises the feline-shy to ease into the print with an accessory, such as a loafer or as a treatment on a lapel, in lining or as outerwear. “Wear leopard in a place you want to draw the eyes to,” she says.在萨克斯第五大道,谢林建议:不喜欢猫科动物斑纹者可用配饰慢慢过渡至豹纹的办法,如穿双乐福鞋、对翻领及内衬稍作改动、或是用外套来搭配。“把豹纹放在自己希望引发关注的部位,”她说。But at Net-a-Porter, the current popularity of the print was almost a missed opportunity. Having decided to take a break from the ubiquitous pattern this season, fashion director Holli Rogers dropped her spot-free mandate after seeing designers who normally shy away from leopard – from Stella McCartney to Mother of Pearl – embrace it with fervour: “Leopard print felt fresh again – something I wasn’t expecting this season at all.” And her advice on how to embrace the look? “My number one tip is to have fun with leopard,” she says. “Fearlessly experiment.”但目前最流行的豹纹装差点与Net-a-Porter网店失之交臂。时尚总监霍利?罗杰斯(Holli Rogers)原打定主意与今年秋冬季无处不在的豹纹式样“决裂”,但在亲眼目睹从斯特拉?麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)到Mother of Pearl、这些昔日规避豹纹图样的设计师都对它顶礼膜拜后,也摈弃了不用动物斑纹的设计信条:“这个秋冬季豹纹再次迸发青春气息——这是我压根未曾预料到。”那么她建议该如何对待豹纹装?“本人最佳建议是高高兴兴接受豹纹装,”她说。“勇敢无畏地去尝试它。”The spot market for men: Get in touch with your inner caveman男士豹纹装:满足内心狂野“I guess animal prints have always been a classic – just never in menswear,” says Topman’s creative director Gordon Richardson of the animal print phenomenon that is crossing over into men’s wardrobes. “With the explosion of print and pattern we’ve been witnessing in menswear, an animal print suddenly seems like an easy option for men as a way of updating their wardrobes and looking ahead of the curve.”“我觉得动物斑纹装永远经典——只是原先从不与男装有关,”Topman创意总监戈登?理查德森(Gordon Richardson)这样评价动物斑纹装逐步进入男装领地这种现象。“随着动物斑纹及图样在男装系列遍地开花,它们似乎突然之间成为男士更新换代自己装、实现超前时尚的捷径。”But leopard print for men is not just about affordable T-shirts and sweatshirts; it is also being touted as an ultra luxurious investment buy, writes David Hayes.但男士豹纹装并非只是寻常价位的T恤以及运动衫,它还忽悠成有投资价值的超奢侈消费品,大卫?海耶斯(David Hayes)如是写道。“The ‘snow leopard’ patterned coat is in mink that has been needle-punched through cashmere jacquard,” says Kim Jones, creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, of the label’s star men’s buy (£5,050). “It’s a brand new technique that we have developed exclusively.”“雪豹纹外套用羊绒提花针轧的貂皮做就,”路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男装创意总监金姆?琼斯(Kim Jones)这样评价旗下推出的、专门针对男士大腕的款式(售价5050英镑)。“这项全新技术是我们专为男士开发。”“I’ve always liked Stephen Sprouse’s leopard print for Louis Vuitton and wanted to make a masculine version of it,” adds Jones.“我一直很喜欢史蒂芬?斯普劳斯(Stephen Sprouse)为路易威登设计的豹纹装,也想设计类似的男装系列,”琼斯补充道。But will leopard print – however luxurious – sell to men? “Some of our clients are on a constant search for unique, limited edition products to make themselves stand out,” says Jones. “I’m always surprised by some of our top clients’ choices; it challenges us to come up with new developments season after season.”但男士豹纹装(不管多奢华)销路会如何?“有些顾客一直在苦苦找寻独具风格的限量版装,以使自己与众不同,”琼斯说。“我总是惊喜于某些高端客户的喜好;他们不断激励我们在每个装季推陈出新。”Another label pioneering leopard for men is British knit trio Sibling, who have made the leopard sweater their own (from £260). “All three of us adore animal prints,” says Cozette McCreery, who teamed up with Sid Bryan and Joe Bates to form Sibling in 2008. “Our wardrobes are like an African dictator’s interior decoration scheme: zebra, leopard spots, tiger stripes, snake print.另一前卫豹纹男装设计师是英国针织装三人组合Sibling,他们推出了自己的豹纹运动衫(售价260英镑起)。“我们三人都酷爱动物斑纹,”柯赛特?麦克里瑞(Cozette McCreery)说,她2008年与希德?布赖恩(Sid Bryan)以及乔?贝兹(Joe Bates)共同创建Sibling品牌。“我们的衣柜酷似非洲独裁者的室内装饰图案大荟萃:斑马纹、豹纹、狮纹以及蛇纹。“Our very first collection incorporated a leopard pattern on a cashmere base and was a firm favourite with everyone from skater guys to city boys,” adds McCreery. Why leopard? “Because it was always our intention to steal from womenswear. Now it’s what store buyers and consumers expect, and, because it feels timeless to us, we are happy to oblige.”“我们设计的第一个系列就把豹纹融入到羊绒制品中,从溜冰小伙到都市男孩,他们对我们的产品爱不释手,欲罢不能,” 麦克里瑞补充说。为何选择豹纹装?“因为我们一直有从女装嫁接设计风格的愿望。如今它是顾客与消费者期盼的产品,因为它永远不落伍,我们乐得顺水推舟。”Have animal prints really become the new neutral for men? Some style insiders are having none of it. “No. It’s a trend, not a classic,” says Mr Porter’s Jeremy Langmead emphatically.动物斑纹装是否真成了男士新的中性装代表?某些时尚业内人士全然不这么认为。“不,它只是股流行风,而非时尚经典,”在线零售商Mr Porter主编杰里米?兰米德(Jeremy Langmead)强调说。“For autumn we have bought animal prints sp broadly across accessories and clothing,” says Langmead. “From leopard sweaters by Raf Simons (£610) and shirts by Acne (£200) to Chelsea boots (£650) by Burberry Prorsum and scarves (£390) from Saint Laurent. But we also have a great pair of grey suede leopard print slippers by Jimmy Choo (£395) which could easily be worn with a dinner suit and are incredibly elegant.”“对于今年的秋冬季,我们采购了广泛运用动物斑纹的各种配饰及装,”兰米德说。“从拉夫?西蒙斯(Raf Simons)的豹纹毛衣(售价610英镑)、艾克妮(Acne)的豹纹衬衣(售价210英镑)、柏利?珀松(Burberry Prorsum)设计的短靴(Chelsea boots,售价650英镑)到圣?罗兰(Saint Laurent)的丝巾(售价390英镑),应有尽有。但我们也采购了Jimmy Choo灰色山羊皮豹纹拖鞋(售价395英镑),它设计精巧,很容易与晚宴小礼搭配穿,显得特别温文尔雅。”“It certainly heralds a new mood for print and texture in menswear. It will be interesting to see how this will evolve,” adds Langmead. “Who knew that men would willingly embrace florals a few years ago, let alone leopard?”“这明确昭示了男装花样与质地出现了新的时尚趋势。能亲眼目睹它如何演变发展很有意义,”兰米德补充道。“几年前,谁都没预见到男士会心甘情愿地喜欢上花式装?更甭提豹纹装了!” /201311/263916A new study surprised researchers, finding that for adolescent girls, romantic relationship problems can have serious, negative implications for their mental health.据心理学网站psychcentral报道,一项新的研究震惊了研究者。研究发现对青春期的少女来说,感情问题对她们的精神健康会产生严重的负面影响。“I found that girls’ risk of severe depression, thoughts of suicide, and suicide attempt increase the more their relationships diverge from what they imagined,” said the study’s author Brian Soller, Ph.D., an assistant professor of sociology at the University of New Mexico.“我发现,女孩有严重抑郁症的风险,自杀的想法和企图在增加,因为更多的关系偏离她们的想象。”该研究的作者布瑞恩·索勒士说。他是新墨西哥大学的社会学助理教授。“Conversely, I found no evidence that romantic relationship inauthenticity —which captures the extent to which relationships unfold in ways that are inconsistent with how adolescents think or feel they should —contributes to poor mental health among boys.”“相反,我发现没有据表明恋爱关系的真实性——抓住了何种程度的关系的展现方式是与青少年的想法或感觉不一致的——这有助于心理健康状况不佳的男孩。”Soller used data from more than 5,300 high school students from the National Longitudinal Study of Adolescent Health. From this data set he examined the mental health consequences of mismatches between adolescents’ ideal and actual relationships.索勒的研究资料来自国家青少年健康的纵向研究的5300多所高中的学生。从这个数据中,他检查了青少年的理想和现实之间关系的不匹配的心理健康的影响。The study appears in the Journal of Health and Social Behavior.这项研究发表在《健康与社会行为》杂志上。Soller measured relationship inauthenticity by comparing how adolescents described their ideal relationship in an initial interview with how their first relationship after the interview actually played out.索勒通过把青少年在最初的面试中怎样描述他们的理想关系与面试结束后他们的第一次恋爱是怎样作对比,来测量关系的不真实性。“In the initial interview, researchers provided adolescents with a number of cards describing events that often occur within relationships, including everything from hand-holding and kissing to sex,” Soller said.“在最初的测试中,研究者们提供青少年许多带有描述经常会出现在恋爱中的事情的卡片,这是事情小到牵手大到接吻”,索勒说。Respondents kept cards describing events they would engage in within an ideal relationship, and then indicated the order in which the events would occur.Roughly a year later, the respondents repeated the exercise, only this time they indicated which events took place within their relationship, and then provided the order in which the events transpired.被研究者保留那些带有他们理想恋爱关系中想要拥有事情的卡片,这会预示事件出现的顺序。During both interviews, researchers asked participants about their mental health.在面试中,研究者询问被研究者的精神健康问题。As for why relationship inauthenticity increased the risk of mental health problems for girls, but not for boys, Soller said, “Romantic relationships are particularly important components of girls’ identities and are, therefore, strongly related to how they feel about themselves —good or bad.对于为什么恋爱关系的不真实性增加了女孩产生精神问题的风险,而对男孩却没有影响。索勒说“恋爱关系是女孩特性的特别重要的组成,因此,与她们对自己感觉如何有很重要的关联——好或者不好”。“As a result, relationships that diverge from what girls envision for themselves are especially damaging to their emotional well-being.”“因此,那种偏离她们渴望的恋爱关系尤其损害她们的精神健康”。On the other hand, Soller said relationships are not as important to boys’ identities.另一方面,索勒说,恋爱对男孩来说没有那么重要。“Boys may be more likely to build their identities around sports or other extracurricular activities, so this could be why they are not affected by relationship inauthenticity,” he said.“男孩更加有可能发展他们在运动或者其他业余活动上的特性,所以这可能是为什么他们不被恋爱的不真实性影响的原因”他说。In terms of the study’s policy implications, Soller said parents, educators, and policymakers should think about how to help girls construct identities that are less closely tied to romantic involvement.按照研究策略表示,索勒说父母,教育工作者,政策制定者应该考虑如何帮助女孩构建与恋爱无关或与恋爱少有关联的特性。“Helping girls build their identities around things other than romantic relationships may mitigate the effects of relationship inauthenticity on their mental health,” he said.“帮助女孩发展她们在其他事情上的兴趣而不是恋爱可以缓和恋爱的不真实性对她们精神健康的影响”,他说。Soller also suggested that creating programs and interventions aimed at providing adolescents with tools to help them better control how the events in their relationships play out may lead to romances that enhance adolescent mental health and other developmental outcomes.索勒建议创建程序和干预措施,旨在为青少年提供工具,帮助他们更好地控制她们关系的进展可能会促进青少年的心理健康和其他成长成果。 /201404/292952ROCKFORD, Mich. (AP) — A western Michigan couple with 12 sons is expecting baby No. 13, and even though they#39;re stickingto their tradition of not finding out in advance whether they#39;re having a boyor girl, they said they#39;d be shocked if their streak is broken.密歇根,罗克福德(美联社)——居住在密歇根州西部的一对夫妇共育有12个儿子,他们仍在期盼第13个孩子的到来。虽然夫妇俩坚持不事先弄清孩子的性别,但他们说如果惯例被打破的话,他们会感到震惊的。Jay and Kateri Schwandt#39;s baby is due May 9, The Grand Rapids Press reported . Even though they expect it will be another boy, the couple said they would welcome either intothe family.据大溪城(The GrandRapids)新闻报道,Jay 和 Kateri Schwandt的孩子预计将在明年5月9号出生。虽然他们期待再迎来一男孩,但夫妇俩说男女都接受。;If we were to have a girl, I think wewould go into shock,; Kateri Schwandt said. ;It would probably bedis belief.;Kateri Schwandt 说,“如果我们将有个女儿,我觉得我们俩都会出现休克反应的,这是件让人不相信的事情”。If he had a choice, Jay Schwandt said he would love to have a girl, but they#39;re just ;hoping for a healthy baby.; Still, he would like to see the effect of adding a girl to the mixin a household with 12 boys.如果可以选择的话,JaySchwandt说,他想要个女儿,不过他们只是“希望能有个健康的宝宝”。他还是很想看到给拥有12个儿子的家里添个女儿会带来什么变化。The couple welcomed their twelfth son,Tucker, to the world on Aug. 4, 2013. Their oldest son is now 22 years old.夫妇俩于2014年8月4号迎来了他们的第12个孩子Tucker。他们最年长的儿子现在已经22岁了。;The stuff that goes on in this houseis all-boy — rough housing and wrestling,; Jay Schwandt said. ;Ifthere was a little girl in there, I assume it would be different.;Jay Schwandt 说,“家里都是男孩——他们喧闹打斗,如果有个小女孩的话,我觉得情况会有所不同”。Kateri Schwandt, after being the sole female in the family for more than two decades, said she would lean towardhaving one more boy.二十多年来,KateriSchwandt是家中唯一的女性,她说自己偏向再养育一个男孩。;A little girl would be neat to have in the house, but a little boy kind of takes the pressure off,; she said.;We know what we are doing. Why change things up?;她说,“家里有个小女孩很不错,但养育男孩没那么大压力。我们知道自己在做什么,为何要作出改变?”The Schwandts, who live Rockford,which is north of Grand Rapids,consider themselves devout Roman Catholics and don#39;t believe in using birthcontrol. Kateri Schwandt comes from a family of 14 kids. She said she is feeling well.居住在位于大溪城以北罗克福德市的认为他们家是虔诚的罗马天主教徒,他们并不赞成使用避措施。Kateri Schwand在一个有14个孩子的家里长大,她说自己感觉良好。;I love being pregnant,; shesaid. ;I#39;ve spent half of my life being pregnant. It#39;s very neat and veryspecial.;她说,“我喜欢怀的感觉,我大半辈子都在育生命,这种经历很棒也很特别”。 /201410/339434

If anything can be deemed utterly superfluous, it#39;s a fur handbag. Tucking one#39;s wallet and keys in mink or beaver is an act of pure let-them-eat-cake extravagance.如果有任何东西可以说是没必要的奢侈,那可能就是个皮草手袋。把钱包和钥匙放进一个用貂毛或海狸毛做的包,展现出来的是那种 “何不食肉糜”的贵气。所以今年秋天,皮草手袋成为流行大势也在情理之中。So it makes sense that fur handbags would be a big trend for fall. Designers are competing to outdo one another in luxury. Among the new bling popping out all over is J. Mendel#39;s ,500 tote made of broadtail (the pelt of a very young lamb). Brunello Cuccinelli#39;s mink backpack with two exterior pockets, priced at ,830 from Neiman Marcus, might not make many children#39;s back-to-school lists, but it marks the height of the trend.皮草手袋成为秋季流行大势也在情理之中。设计师们竞相展示奢华。在这一轮新潮流中有J. Mendel家6,500美元的手提袋,该手提袋采用的是阔尾羔羊皮。Brunello Cuccinelli则推出了外部有两个口袋的貂皮双肩包,尼曼(Neiman Marcus)对其定价为7,830美元, 这样的双肩包或许不在小朋友返校需添置的物品之列,但却将奢华发挥到了极致。Stores are stocked with furry bags from Valentino, Burberry, and Fendi. The fall collections, which begin arriving in stores in coming weeks, were a veritable parade of handbags made of fur from the likes of Marchesa, Fendi, Donna Karan, Marni and Derek Lam.从华伦天奴(Valentino)、柏利(Burberry)到芬迪(Fendi)众多品牌都推出了皮草手袋。未来几周各大名品店将陆续推出今秋新品,马切萨(Marchesa)、芬迪、唐娜-凯伦(Donna Karan)、Marni和Derek Lam等设计的皮草手袋将缤纷亮相。A renewed appetite for luxury-even silly luxury-is an outgrowth of the sense among many wealthy consumers that the financial crisis has receded to a distant speck in their rearview mirrors. That sentiment is fueling many segments at the tippy top of the luxury industry. The made-to-order haute couture collections in Paris are experiencing a rebirth. Saks Fifth Avenue, no longer willing to settle for the merely aspirational client, is making itself over as a far more expensive, elite place to shop. Fashion brands report their most expensive products sell out first.当今不少富有的消费者感觉,金融危机已经渐行渐远,于是便滋生了对奢侈品(其中一些甚至奢侈到不可思议)的欲望,刺激了奢侈品行业前沿众多相关领域。巴黎再度掀起定做高级女时装的风潮。萨克斯第五大道精品百货店(Saks Fifth Avenue)不再甘心于只为有强烈需求的客户务,正在转型为价格更加高昂的精英购物场所。时尚品牌一般都表示,旗下最贵的产品销路最好。But this isn#39;t the logo-encrusted bling of the early naughts. It#39;s far more sensual and much more costly, with a focus on rare materials such as crocodile, handmade lace, and animal pelts used in every way imaginable. Fur was flying down the runway on more than handbags in the fall collections. Oscar de la Renta did an embroidered, fur-hemmed flapper dress. Ralph Rucci lined a puffer coat in mink.但这并不是以前那种印着醒目标识的高档产品。如今的产品更加感性,价格也更高昂,注重珍稀材料,诸如鳄鱼皮、手制蕾丝以及动物皮毛等。在秋季新品中,皮草还被用于手提包之外的产品中。Oscar de la Renta推出了一款皮草镶边的刺绣针织短裙。Ralph Rucci则推出了一款貂皮大衣。A fur handbag is chubby, and it can risk being mistaken for a pet. As fashion trends go, this one borders on goofy-even before you#39;ve seen Fendi#39;s ,600 #39;Monster#39; baguette bag, which has a face and fuzzy eyebrows.皮毛手袋看上去胖乎乎的,有可能会被误以为是宠物。就时装潮流而言,这样的手袋看上去有些怪怪的──即使你还没有见过芬迪售价6,600美元的“Monster” 长方形手袋,这款手袋外观像一张脸,还有毛绒绒的眉毛。Why would so many designers, living all over the world, arrive at this concept at the identical time? Jason Wu, who had fur bags in his fall collection, says it#39;s because designers are so clued into the cultural psyche and watch all the same consumer proclivities. #39;We#39;re like food processors,#39; he says. #39;We take it all in and we spew out a cocktail.#39; Plus, he notes, last winter, when designers were creating their Fall 2014 collections, #39;it was very cold.#39;吴季刚2015年秋季新品秀上的一款皮草手袋。为何世界各地这么多的设计师在同一时间看中了这一概念?秋季新品中包含毛皮手袋的设计师吴季刚(Jason Wu)表示,这是因为设计师都非常了解文化心理,而且关注的也是相同的消费倾向。他说,设计师就像食品加工者,他们加入所有原料,然后调制出一杯鸡尾酒。他还说,另外,去年冬天设计师在设计2014年秋季新品时,天气非常寒冷。Intense competition in the design industry forces hundreds of designers to make their products stand out. As a result, they sometimes lunge at outlandish ideas. Right now, the more opulent, the better.设计行业的激烈竞争促使数以百计的设计师力争让自己的产品脱颍而出。因此,他们有时会有一些非常奇特的想法。如今的时尚界是越奢华越好。It seems everyone wants in on the trend, even if they don#39;t use fur. Stella McCartney, who is ardently anti-fur, used faux-fur in a houndstooth shoulder bag currently selling at Saks for ,395.似乎每个人都想赶上这一潮流,即使他们平时并不用皮草。例如,坚决抵制皮草的斯泰拉(Stella McCartney)也买了一个缀有人造皮草的犬牙花纹单肩包,这个包目前在Saks售价1,395美元。High retail prices and changing attitudes toward fur will keep some of these bags limited in number compared with other #39;it#39; bags presented in collections. Some retailers are stepping away from fur fashions, leaving labels to sell them directly, which most do anyway. Net-a-porter, the Web retailer that is often first to leap on outlandish runway looks, won#39;t have any of the fur bags and is moving to eliminate most fur from the collections it sells this fall. It will sell pelts such as shearling, according to a person familiar with the retailer#39;s plans.然而,高昂的零售价和人们对皮草态度的变化不定将限制皮草手袋的数量,使之无法与其他类型的手袋比肩。一些零售商并未积极迎合皮草潮流,推出皮草手袋的品牌需要自己直接销售。据知情人士称,经常抢先发布古怪走秀款的网络零售商Net-a-porter不会摆出皮草手袋,而且正打算从今秋的产品展中撤下多数皮草,但羊毛等毛皮产品还是会卖的。Vera Wang#39;s cuddly black mink tote is listed as #39;price upon request#39;- which is designer shorthand for #39;come in and special-order it.#39; A spokeswoman confirms the bag wasn#39;t produced for stores.王薇薇(Vera Wang)设计的一款毛绒绒的黑色貂皮手袋被归为了“价格另洽”行列,意思就是设计师为上门特别订单赶制的。一位发言人实,这款手袋不会用于零售店销售。J. Mendel, though, is selling four memorable styles-two clutches and two totes-of color-blocked broadtail, with prices starting at ,900 for a clutch made of the baby lamb and calf skin. Donna Karan#39;s long-haired goat bag, looking like an adorable Cousin It, is priced at ,995 (it should come with a comb).J. Mendel品牌推出了四款令人印象深刻的包包,手包和手提包各两款。手提包材质用的是大块颜色的阔尾羔羊皮。一款手包用羔羊皮和小牛皮制成,起始定价4,900美元。Donna Karan的长毛山羊手包可以视为可爱版的Cousin It,定价1,995美元(其实应该配套出售一款梳子,梳理这么长的毛)。With the weather still toasty, Saks has an array of fur bags available, from Burberry#39;s adoptable-looking mink shoulder bag (,295) to Valentino#39;s mink shoulder bag (,395). For shoppers who don#39;t want to commit to the full trend, Fendi has augmented its fall menagerie of fur handbags with accessories to hang from any bag or even your rearview mirror-all made of fur, of course. There are ornamental balls and little monster faces, but the best is a miniature caricature of Karl Lagerfeld, the label#39;s longtime designer, with white fur for his famous hair.尽管依然是烈日炎炎,但消费者已经可以从Saks买到皮草手袋了,例如柏利(Burberry)的貂皮单肩包(2,295美元)、华伦天奴(Valentino)的貂皮单肩包(售价5,395美元)。为吸引那些不想随大流的消费者,芬迪(Fendi)为其秋季皮草手包系列款式配备了各类挂饰,可以吊在任何手包甚至你的后视镜上──当然所有的挂饰也都是皮草做成的。你可以选择装饰品小球,还可以买小怪兽面具,但最棒的当属长期效力芬迪的设计师卡尔#12539;拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)缩小版雕像,白色皮毛充当着他那著名的白发。 /201408/320673

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