哈尔滨看妇科病哪家最专业光明媒体

明星资讯腾讯娱乐2019年07月21日 14:18:25
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We have all heard of Sherlock Holmes, and in the eyes of most of the world he is the greatest fictional detective of all time. His popularity is so great that there is an entire society devoted to Sherlock Holmes fan fiction and sometimes to pretending he is real, called the Baker Street Irregulars. It is inevitable that with such popularity there will be many mistaken notions about the character. Its mythology becomes distorted and things that are not at all true become commonly repeated as fact. Below are ten things most people think about Sherlock Holmes, that are completely wrong.我们都听说过夏洛克·福尔斯,在世界上大多数人眼中他是有史以来最厉害的小说版侦探。他深受欢迎,甚至有一整个协会都致力于夏洛克福尔斯粉丝小说的创作,有时候还假装他真实存在,称之为贝克街小分队。如此流行的人物,人们有所误解也在所难免。他的传奇被扭曲,许多不尽不实的事情却成为了人们口口相传的事实。以下是大多数人对于福尔斯的十大误解。10.Innocent People10.清白的人Misconception: He wouldn#39;t treat an innocent person badly just to solve a case.误解: 他不会为了破案而伤害无辜的人们。Many people see Sherlock Holmes as a white knight of the detective world: he solves cases using only the power of his mind and innocent people never get hurt in the process. He is universally beloved as the greatest fictional detective in the world, but he had more of a dark side than just his drug use and other eccentric habits. Sherlock Holmes was not at all averse to doing whatever it took to win a case, and he often played the game for the games own sake. In one story The Adventure of Charles Augustus Milverton, he becomes engaged to a housemaid to get closer to a villain he is trying to expose. After he solves the case, he simply leaves the woman, presumably upsetting her greatly. He never makes any effort to explain the situation to her and we never hear about it again. He also employed a small group of street urchins to do his dirty work, which he affectionately called ;The Baker Street Irregulars.; We see them in The Sign of the Four, A Study in Scarlet, and The Adventure of the Crooked Man.许多人认为福尔斯是侦探世界里的白马骑士:在破案时他只需要运用他的智慧,无辜的人也不会受伤。他深受人们喜爱,是世界上最伟大的小说侦探,但是除了吸毒和其他怪癖之外,他还有一些阴暗面。他为了破案不折手段,常常玩花样。在《查尔斯·奥古斯塔斯·米尔沃顿》这个故事中,为了揭发一个恶棍,他接近他的女仆并与之订婚。破案之后,他就离开了那个女人,让她伤透了心。他也不曾向她做出任何解释,而此事很多人都蒙在鼓里。而且,他还雇佣一些街童做非法勾当,美其名曰;贝克街小分队;。我们可以在《四签名》、《血字的研究》和《驼背人》中看见他们的身影。9.Socially Advanced9.思想开明Misconception: Sherlock Holmes was a socially-forward thinker误解: 福尔斯是一个思想开明的人。In The Adventure of the Three Gables Sherlock Holmes engages in some very cruel and racist conversations with black people. He basically calls a black boxer stupid based on his skin color and then goes so far as to make fun of the size of his lips. An excerpt from Holmes encounter with Steve Dixie, a black boxer: ;‘That#39;s my name, Masser Holmes, and you#39;ll get put through it for sure if you give me any lip.#39; ‘It is certainly the last thing you need,#39; said Holmes, staring at our visitor#39;s hideous mouth.; After The boxer left Sherlock Holmes comments: ;I am glad you were not forced to break his woolly head, Watson. I observed your maneuvers with the poker. But he is really rather a harmless fellow, a great muscular, foolish, blustering baby, and easily cowed, as you have seen.; There are other times where more commonplace comments are made about people from Africa in general, that are somewhat disparaging. There are a couple of important things to note, however. When the stories were written, these attitudes were fairly commonplace, it doesn#39;t excuse them, but it doesn#39;t make the character much different from anyone else in England at the time. It is also interesting to note that many scholars believe The Adventure of the Three Gables, which had the most obvious racism, was actually a forgery and not written by Arthur Conan Doyle at all. This would not be particularly surprising as Sherlock Holmes fan fiction has been popular for a long time.在《三角墙山庄》中,福尔斯和一名黑人的谈话非常残忍并带有种族歧视。他只是基于他的肤色就把黑人拳击手叫做笨蛋,而且还取笑了他的嘴唇大小。摘录中,福尔斯遇见了一名名叫史蒂夫·迪克西(Steve Dixie)的黑人拳击手。;我就是福尔斯,如果你说些好话我或许会放过你;;那你倒用不着;,福尔斯使劲盯着他奇丑无比的嘴巴说。拳击手离开后,福尔斯评价道:;华生,幸亏你没有敲破他那结实的脑袋。我看见你拿拨火棒的动作了。其实他倒是一个不妨事的,别看浑身是肌肉,倒是个愚蠢的、放空炮的小孩子,很容易把他镇住,就象刚才那样。;在其他时候他对非洲人的评价普遍如此,还带有一些侮辱性的言辞。但是,我们也要注意到一些重要的事情。写故事的时候,这种态度非常普遍,我不是在找借口,但人物的态度和当时其他英格兰的人们一样,没有什么不同。很有意思的是,许多学者认为《三角墙山庄》中种族歧视最为明显,事实上是赝品,根本不是出自柯南·道尔之手。福尔斯同人小说一直都很流行,出现这种事情也不足为奇。8.Withholding Information8.隐瞒信息Misconception: Sherlock Holmes withholds information from the police.误解:福尔斯对警察隐瞒了信息。In the recent Sherlock Holmes movies, he is pictured taking evidence from crime scenes and hiding it from the police on multiple occasions. This allows him to stay several steps ahead at all times and ensures he solves the case before they do. The only problem here is that this is totally the opposite of how he behaved in the books. Sherlock Holmes would always leave enough evidence for the police to figure out the same things he did if they were so inclined as we see in The Adventure of the Devils Foot. And he would often share information with them if he thought they were pursuing a useless line of inquiry, which we can see in The Adventure of Wisteria Lodge. Sherlock Holmes stayed ahead of the police because he was simply better at deduction than they were; it does a disservice to his character to suggest that he would ever misappropriate evidence.在最近的一些福尔斯电影中,他被塑造为从犯罪现场带走物多次对警察隐瞒信息的人物形象。这样的话,他可以一直比警察快一步,在警察之前破案。唯一的问题是他的这些行为与书中所写完全相反。在《魔鬼之足》中,我们可以看到警方如果配合他的话,福尔斯总是会给警方留下线索,让他们推理出自己知道的一切。在《藤荘》中,福尔斯如果认为警方追踪的是一条无用的线索,也会与警方分享信息。他总是比警方快一步仅仅是因为他比他们更加擅长推理;他盗用据只会贬低他的人物形象。7.Best Friend7.最好的朋友Misconception: Holmes trusts his best friend Dr. Watson.误解:福尔斯信任他最好的朋友华生。Sherlock Holmes#39;s best friend is Dr. John Watson, and he relies on him as his biographer and companion, especially on very dangerous missions. The pair are incredibly close and remain good friends throughout most of their lives. Holmes even comments that he would be ;lost without his Boswell,; in reference to the famous 18th century biographer of Samuel Johnson. However, while Holmes may have trusted his best friend to defend him in a scrape, and trusted his medical knowledge, he does not truly trust Dr. Watson. In The Hound of the Baskervilles, Holmes sends Dr. Watson to keep an eye on the situation at Baskerville hall, and then sneaks out to the moor to keep an eye on the situation himself rather than trusting his friends account. And to make matters worse he does not even tell Dr. Watson of his arrival. Also, in The Adventure of the Dying Detective, he tricks his best friend into thinking he is dying of a deadly disease because he does not believe that Dr. Watson would be able to keep the secret that he was faking it if he told him. While he claims respect for Dr. Watson#39;s medical skills, it#39;s a poor show that he doesn#39;t think his friend could go along with his game.福尔斯最好的朋友就是约翰·华生医生。尤其是在执行极其危险的任务时,华生作为他的伙伴和传记作家,是他最依赖的人。两人亲密无间,一生都维持着挚友的关系。福尔斯甚至评价说:;没有他的斯韦尔,他的人生就迷失了。;(参考18世纪著名传记作家塞缪尔·约翰逊的话,斯韦尔是为密友撰写传记的人)。然而,或许福尔斯相信华生会在他处于困境时维护他,信任他的医药知识,但他不是真的信任华生医生。在《巴斯克维尔的猎犬》中,他派华生去监视巴斯克维尔庄园里的一举一动,然后自己偷偷溜去沼泽暗中观察情形,这无疑是不信任华生。更糟糕的是,他甚至没有告诉华生他的行踪。而且在《临终的侦探》中,他欺骗华生,让他认为他病入膏肓而死去。因为他不相信如果他告诉华生真相,华生会隐瞒住他假死的秘密。虽然他敬佩华生的医术,但这也是掩饰自己不认为华生可以和他一起玩侦探游戏的无聊作秀罢了。6.Eccentric Manners6.古怪的穿着Misconception: Holmes dresses in an eccentric manner and is often dirty or unkempt.误解:福尔斯穿着古怪,蓬乱,肮脏不堪。Not all movies are guilty of this particular offense, but the horrible monstrosity that was the recent two part movie series with Robert Downey Jr is a huge offender. Robert Downey Jr portrays Holmes as dressing in an extremely eccentric manner, including ill fitting clothes, strange ensembles that don#39;t make sense and as having a general air of bad hygiene. However, Sherlock Holmes is actually described in The Hound of the Baskervilles as having a cat like approach to cleanliness. He dressed in very traditional, conservative clothes for his time and was always impeccably neat. In fact, in The Hound of the Baskervilles, Sherlock Holmes is out on the moor investigating a case in secret, living in an old shack, and still arranges to have fresh linen and other luxuries brought to him so that he can remain neat and clean.不是所有的电影都要承担这样的罪名,但是可怕的是,由美国演员小罗伯特·道尼主演的两部福尔斯的电影却是重犯。小罗伯特·道尼将福尔斯刻画为穿着古怪(穿着不合身、古怪的让人费解的衣着搭配)和卫生习惯差的人。然而,事实上福尔斯在《巴斯克维尔的猎犬》中被描绘得像猫一样有洁癖。他穿着传统保守的衣而且总是一尘不染。在《巴斯克维尔的猎犬》中,福尔斯前往沼泽调查一宗神秘案件,他还是带了一些干净的亚麻布和其他一些奢侈品,让自己保持整洁和干净。翻译:高陈影 编辑:陈艳冲 来源:前十网 /201509/399238

David Mundell, Conservative British MP and Secretary of State for Scotland, came out as gay in an open letter posted on his website Thursday.英国保守党议员和苏格兰国务卿戴维·芒德尔,周四在个人网站上发布一封公开信,承认自己是同性恋。The father of three and Scotland#39;s only Tory MP titled his message: ;New Year, New Start!;, writing that coming out was one of the most important decisions of his life:这位苏格兰唯一的保守党议员,也是三个孩子的父亲的信件标题为:“新年新开始!”。之后,他将这一生最重要的决定写了出来:;Having taken one of the most important decisions of my life and resolved to come out publicly as gay in 2016, I just want to get on with it.;;我已经做出了我一生中最重要的决定之一,那就是在2016年公开宣布我的性取向为男性,我想以这样一种身份继续好好生活。;Mundell#39;s sudden announcement made waves in Britain.芒德尔突然;出柜;的消息已经在英国掀起了波澜。Of the 650 members of Britain#39;s House of Commons, 34 are openly lesbian, gay, bisexual or and transgender (LGBT) - about 5.2% of the total.截至目前,英国下议院的650名议员中已有34位公开宣布为LGBT(女同、男同、双性恋、变性者),占比约为5.2%。It may be the most LGBT legislature in the world.英国议会可能是世界上LGBT最多的立法机构。 /201601/422712

  

  Is there a best day to get the lowest price on a flight?有没有买到最便宜机票的最佳办法?Many travelers think the magic day is Tuesday, long lauded by travel deal sites and various publications, including this one, for its fare sales. Other travelers may have heard pundits declare Wednesday the ideal day. In December, Expedia and the Airlines Reporting Corporation, which processes ticket transactions for airlines and travel agencies, announced that weekends are the new best time.很多旅行者认为周二是购买便宜机票的绝佳日子。长期以来,周二得到了旅行交易网站和各种出版物的赞美(包括本刊)。还有些旅行者可能听到权威人士宣布周三是最理想的日子。去年12月,为航空公司和旅行社处理机票业务的艾派迪(Expedia)和航空报告公司(the Airlines Reporting Corporation)宣布,周末成为了新的最佳时机。But is there really a preferred day to buy?但是,真有更适合买机票的日子吗?“I just want to drive a stake through the heart of that myth,” said George Hobica, the founder of the deal alert site Airfarewatchdog.com, who has been looking at airfares on popular routes every day for more than 20 years, with the rare exception of a vacation where he doesn’t have Internet access.交易提醒网站Airfarewatchdog.com的创始人乔治·霍比卡(George Hobica)说:“我真想戳破这种故弄玄虚的说法。”20多年来,除了极少数时候在度假无法上网,他每天都在关注热门航线的票价。There are too many variables at play for there to be a universally ideal day to buy an airline ticket. Price depends on a variety of factors, including the route; the level of competition on the route; surrounding holidays and events (like a convention or the Super Bowl); and the days of the week you plan to fly. During a single week in March, for example, a recent search for a round-trip flight between New York and Miami turned up ticket prices as low as 4 and as high as 4. Besides, nowadays we have fare calendars at our fingertips and websites such as Kayak and Travelzoo that alert us to low fares and sales — and those sales don’t always take place on the same day of the week.机票价格波动的原因太多,没有哪天一定是买票的最佳日子。价格取决于很多因素,包括航线;那条航线的竞争水平;是否在假日和赛事前后(比如某个大会或超级碗[Super Bowl]);你计划飞行的日子是星期几。比如,前不久我查的时候发现,在3月的同一周里,从纽约到迈阿密的往返机票的价格最低174美元,最高314美元。另外,如今我们随时都能查机票价格日历,还有Kayak和Travelzoo这样的网站向我们推送低价票和特价票——特价票不一定总是在一周中的某个日子。Mr. Hobica pointed out, for instance, that on a recent Thursday, Virgin Atlantic lowered nonstop winter flights to Heathrow Airport in London from John F. Kennedy International Airport or Newark Liberty International Airport to about 4 round-trip. Economy fares had been running 0, Mr. Hobica said, then 0, then they went back up, and after that they dipped to around 0.比如,霍比卡指出,在前不久的一个周四,维珍大西洋航空(Virgin Atlantic)把从肯尼迪国际机场(John F. Kennedy International Airport)或纽瓦克自由国际机场(Newark Liberty International Airport)到伦敦希思罗机场(Heathrow Airport)的冬季直飞往返航班的价格降至约504美元。霍比卡说,经济舱的机票本来是900美元,后来降到800美元,后来有所回升,之后跌至约680美元。Airlines (and the above example is but one of many) are perpetually tweaking prices, making predictions difficult. Expedia said as much in its report. Even though its latest research asserts that weekends have the best fares, consumers who spot a good deal on Thursday shouldn’t wait until Saturday to buy it with the hope that the price will tumble even further. “If you find a fare that looks like a good deal, grab it,” the report said, “regardless of the day of week.”航空公司(上面讲的例子很常见)一直在微调票价,所以预测起来很困难。艾派迪在自己的报告中也是这样说。尽管它的最新调查表明,周末的票价最优惠,但是如果你在周四发现了很便宜的机票,不要想着周六价格会进一步下跌,等那时候再买。报告说:“如果你找到了一个看起来不错的价格,那就赶紧买,不管你是在星期几发现的。”In addition to recommending the best times of the week to book, Expedia and other sites such as FareCompare publish suggestions about how far in advance of a trip to book to score the lowest fare. For instance, Expedia reported in December that the optimal time to buy an economy ticket for travel in North America is 57 days in advance, resulting in a potential savings of about 10 percent versus the average fare. Recommended lead times for travel to international destinations, including Europe and Asia-Pacific, were even longer. 艾派迪和FareCompare等网站除了在报告中推荐一周中预订机票的最佳日子,还就提前多久能买到最便宜的机票给出了建议。艾派迪的报告称,12月份时,在北美旅行买经济舱机票的最佳时机是提前57天,可能会比平均票价低约10%。报告还建议,前往国际目的地的话——包括前往欧洲和亚太地区——要提前更长时间预订。Travelers shouldn’t think of predictions as rules, though. There are flights to Asia, for example, that are 0 cheaper when booked at the last minute as opposed to months in advance, Mr. Hobica said.不过,旅行者不应该把预测当做规则。霍比卡说,有些前往亚洲的航班,在最后时刻预订比提前数月预订便宜500美元。And talking about the “average fare” isn’t necessarily helpful because that doesn’t take into account the quality of a flight. Is it nonstop or does it have a 34-minute connection in a busy, sprawling airport like Atlanta? Is it an 18-hour layover in Dallas that will require you to spend an additional 0 in hotel bills and meals? Are you flying in an aisle seat in a Dreamliner or in the middle seat in a MD-80? And if that cheap ticket you found is on a discount airline like Spirit or Frontier, chances are you’ll have to budget another to 0 to check a bag. In other words, you probably don’t want the average fare.另外,谈论“平均票价”不一定有帮助,因为那没把航班品质计算进去。是直飞航班还是需要在一个繁忙庞大的机场(比如亚特兰大机场)中转34分钟?是否需要在达拉斯中途停留18个小时(这就需要再300美元住店和用餐)?是梦幻客机上一个靠近过道的座位,还是MD-80上的一个中间座位?如果你找到的便宜机票是精神航空(Spirit)或边疆航空(Frontier)等廉价航空公司的机票,那么你很可能需要再花30美元至100美元托运行李。换句话说,你很可能不想要平均价格的机票。If you want to sit next to your companion, be a safe distance from the bathroom, put your bag in an overhead compartment instead of the belly of the plane, and have enough time to make a connection, what you really want are good fares that may not be the absolute cheapest, but give you the experience you want.如果你想和同伴坐在一起,离卫生间足够远,把行李放在行李架上而非机舱腹部,有足够的时间转机,那么你真正想要的是能给你带来你想要的体验的好机票,而不一定是最便宜的机票。So how do you find these fares?那么你该如何找到这些机票呢?Almost every major airline (Delta, ed, JetBlue) has a good flexible date search option on its website that you can use to see which travel dates will get you the lowest prices, along with the time and comforts you need.几乎所有的大型航空公司(比如达美航空[Delta],美国联合航空公司[ed]和捷蓝航空[JetBlue])的网站都提供非常灵活的日期搜索选项,你可以看看在哪些日子旅行机票最便宜并且符合你想要的时间和舒适条件。To search multiple airlines at once, there’s Google Flights, which has simple calendars that allow users to easily see if they can save by flying a day or two earlier or later. The tool offers tips to that end. During a recent flight search for New York to Cancún, a message appeared saying that if I adjusted the travel dates by a few days, I could save 6. While the site has international and domestic flight information for nearly every airline, you won’t find Southwest there, so be sure to look at the airline’s own fare calendar on its website.要想同时搜索好几家航空公司,你可以用Google Flights,它有简单的日历,用户能够轻松看到提前或推迟一两天旅行能否省钱。这个工具提供这方面的提示。前不久,我在搜索从纽约到坎昆的航班时,弹出一条消息说,如果把旅行日期调整几天,能省246美元。虽然该网站提供几乎所有航空公司的国际和国内航班信息,但是不包括西南航空(Southwest),所以你必须去这家公司自己的网站上查看它的机票价格日历。To keep abreast of private sales and low fares (as well as hotel deals), you can search or sign up for alerts on Airfarewatchdog.com. Email alerts include low fares for a particular route that interests you, or all of the affordable round-trip flights departing from your local airport.为了了解私人出售和低票价(以及酒店优惠)的最新情况,你可以在Airfarewatchdog.com网站上搜索或者申请提醒。电子邮件提醒包括你感兴趣的某个航线的低价票,或者从你所在地出发的所有的便宜往返机票。Because prices are constantly fluctuating, keep checking airline websites and Google Flights to see the latest fares. The ticket price you see before lunch may be different a couple of hours later.因为价格经常变化,所以你要不断查看航空公司的网站和Google Flights,以了解最新票价。你在午饭前看到的价格可能跟几个小时后的不一样。Even after you buy a ticket, you still have a chance to save. If you go to My.yapta.com/airline-refunds, you can sign up to receive free notifications if your ticket price drops. (TripIt Pro has a similar service though it’s part of an annual membership.) With Yapta, if the price drop is greater than the cost of your airline’s change fee, you can call the airline and pocket the difference. If the price drops and you booked your ticket within 24-hours, you can simply cancel the ticket free of charge and rebook at the new, lower rate. And if the price on the ticket you purchased goes up? You have something even better: the satisfaction of knowing you nabbed a deal.即便在买完机票之后,也有机会省钱。你可以去My.yapta.com/airline-refunds网站申请票价下跌的免费提醒(TripIt Pro也有类似的务,不过它是49美元年费所含的一项务)。如果你通过Yapta发现票价下降的钱数比改签费还多,那么你可以给航空公司致电改签,省出差价。如果是在预订后24小时内发现降价,可以免费退票,重新以较低的价格预订。那如果你买的机票涨价了呢?那就更好了:为捡着便宜而偷着乐吧。 /201602/428191。

  

  If the luxury industry needed reminding of how fraught creative leadership can be at the world’s biggest fashion houses, Raf Simons’ departure from Christian Dior could not have been better timed.奢侈品界若需要被提醒,担任全球时尚巨擘创意总监有多么压力山大,那么47岁的比利时设计师拉夫缠馉斯(Raf Simons)选择此时从迪奥(Christian Dior)离职最能说明问题。The announcement, late on Thursday, that the 47-year-old Belgian designer would not be renewing his contract as creative director of one of the most revered brands at Paris-based LVMH took the fashion world by surprise.总部位于巴黎的时尚巨擘路威酩轩集团(LVMH)旗下品牌迪奥最近发布公告:拉夫缠馉斯将不再与其续签担任创意总监的合同,这大出时尚界之意料。His exit illustrates how precariously short creative director contracts have become, as well as how vulnerable a designer’s career can be: it comes just weeks after Alexander Wang left Balenciaga, the brand owned by LVMH’s Paris-based rival Kering, barely three years after joining.西蒙斯的离职,除了说明设计师地位朝不保夕之外,还表明创意总监合同如今短到多么不牢靠的地步:就在几周前,王大仁(Alexander Wang)刚刚从加盟不到三年的巴黎世家(Balenciaga)离职,巴黎世家是路威酩轩同在巴黎的竞争对手开云集团(Kering)的下属品牌。That followed Donna Karan’s departure from her eponymous LVMH-owned brand. In December, it was all change at Kering’s flagship Gucci when creative director Frida Giannini was ousted.这两人都步唐纳愠灓(Donna Karan)之后尘,唐纳愠灓鹑去了路威酩轩旗下自己同名品牌创意总监一职。去年12月,古驰(Gucci)创意总监弗里达贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)遭罢黜,从而引发开云集团旗下这家知名大品牌的大换血。Appointed in 2012, Mr Simons arrived at Dior amid the chaos of John Galliano’s dismissal after the celebrated designer was filmed embarking on an alcohol-fuelled racist outburst in a Paris bar. Mr Galliano attributed the breakdown to the excessive demands of a role that found him working on up to 16 collections each year.西蒙斯2012年出任迪奥创意总监,当时正逢其前任创意总监约翰加里亚诺(John Galliano)因在巴黎某酒吧酒后失态大放种族歧视厥词而遭解聘、从而掀起轩然之际。加里亚诺把酒后失态归咎于创意总监的超负荷工作强度,重压之下,他每年必须推出的时装系列多达16个。The reasons for Mr Simons’ departure are still unclear, though he is known to return to his native Belgium often and is also in a new relationship, which LVMH insiders say is occupying his attention.西蒙斯的辞职原因目前仍不得而知,尽管众所周知,他时常回母国比利时,而且目前正在热恋之中,路威酩轩内部人士说正是这段恋情让他分心。“It’s been a big shock. Raf’s a very balanced guy and he was doing such a great job. it’s a shame they couldn’t keep a hold of him there,” says one source.“他的辞职犹如晴天霹雳。西蒙斯的工作有条不紊,业绩也是无与伦比。迪奥挽留不住如此才俊,让人惋惜不已,”某消息灵通人士如是评价道。In a Dior statement, Mr Simons said the decision was “based entirely and equally on my desire to focus on other interests in my life, including my own brand and the passions that drive me outside my work”.在迪奥的声明中,西蒙斯说辞职决定“完全基于自己希望能专注于其它人生志趣,其中包括自己的同名品牌以及自己工作之外的其它爱好”。His eponymous menswear line has won critical praise but the business is small, at least compared with the brand founded by Marc Jacobs, who in 2013 left Louis Vuitton as creative director to concentrate on his own collection.他的同名男装系列获得业界好评,但销售量很小(至少无法与马克雅可布(Marc Jacobs)创建的同名品牌相提并论),马克雅可布2013年辞去路易威登(Louis Vuitton)创意总监一职,转而专注于自己的同名品牌。As Luca Solca, luxury analyst at Exane BNP Paribas, says, “when we talk of his own business, there is not much of a business to talk about”. Moreover, Mr Simons’ contract, which expired in May, contained a comprehensive no-compete clause, ruling out any possibility of him joining a rival house.法国巴黎券部(Exane BNP Paribas)奢侈品行业分析师卢卡∠尔卡(Luca Solca)说:“当我们谈论西蒙斯的销售量时,实际是不值一提”。另外,西蒙斯与迪奥签订的合同已于今年5月到期,其中就包括了全面的竞业限制条款,因此也就排除了他加盟其它奢侈品同行的可能性。Like his predecessor, however, Mr Simons has spoken of the pressure of designing collections in weekly intervals; a schedule he tried to ameliorate by charging two design teams with responsibility for alternating collections, but still found him creatively rushed.但与前任一样的是,西蒙斯谈到了设计周期以周计所面临的超常压力;他曾通过让两个设计团队交替负责不同系列的方法、设法改进这种太过密集的时间安排,即便如此,他仍是忙得不可开交。His tenure was successful, a fact that will not be lost on the fashion house founded at Paris’s 30 Avenue Montaigne in 1946. In the three months to the end of September, revenues at Christian Dior Couture rose 5 per cent in organic terms to 471m. In its last fiscal year to the end of June, revenue was up 18 per cent in organic terms to ㄠ.77bn.但他担任创意总监这几年成绩喜人,也会永远记刻在1946年创立于巴黎蒙田大道30号(30 Avenue Montaigne)的迪奥的历史功勋簿上。在截至9月底的三个月中,迪奥女装(Christian Dior Couture)营收4.71亿欧元,有机增长率为5%;迪奥上个财会年度(截至6月底)营收17.7亿欧元,有机增长率达18%。Organic growth at Dior Couture has far outpaced that of LVMH as a whole since Mr Simons’ arrival. But commercial success did not mean creative autonomy: Mr Simons lacked influence on any brand imagery beyond his contractual remit — a sticking point.自西蒙斯执掌迪奥帅印后,迪奥女装有机增长率远超路威酩轩的整体增速。但业绩大获成功并不意味着获得设计的自主性:除了合约规定内容外,西蒙斯对所有品牌形象无法施加影响——这正是关键症结所在。Contrast that with the freedom afforded to Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent. As the label’s creative director, he has absolute creative autonomy over fashion lines, shop design, website and brand campaign images. He has been hailed as the brand’s saviour since Kering appointed him in 2012.这与圣圠灿(Saint Laurent)创意总监艾迪斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)拥有的自主权完全不可同日而语。作为创意总监,艾迪对时装系列设计、门店与网站设计以及品牌宣传片拥有绝对自主权。2012年被开云任命为创意总监后,他被誉为品牌的大救星。Similarly with Alessandro Michele, creative director at Gucci, who was appointed in January and has enjoyed free rein to express his “vision” across the brand.亚历山德罗猠歇尔(Alessandro Michele)同样如此,自今年1月接任古驰创意总监后,他的设计理念在整个品牌公司内部畅通无阻。Against that backdrop, Dior will probably to have to make concessions regarding creative control if it wants to attract the same calibre of “named” designer.在当前这种大背景下,迪奥若要吸引同等级别的设计大腕加盟,也许就得对创意自主权有所放权。One LVMH insider suggests the group is not necessarily in a hurry to appoint a successor and points out that it was almost a year before Mr Simons appeared to calm the storm created by Mr Galliano’s tirade.路威酩轩某内部人士暗示集团并不急于聘请继任创意总监,并指出西蒙斯似乎花了近一年时间才平息由加里亚诺种族大论引发的轩然。Moreover, Mr Solca argues that finding the right person to bring fresh ideas without destroying a brand’s DNA is one of the hardest challenges facing the luxury industry. “It’s probably more art and psychology than science,” he says.此外,索尔卡认为找到合适的继任者——在保持品牌原有时尚风格的前提下注入全新理念——一直是奢侈品行业面临的最棘手挑战。“创意总监的艺术风格与心理状态比其专业知识更为重要,”他说道。Even so, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy must be an obvious frontrunner. The designer just celebrated his 10th anniversary at the LVMH-owned house with a New York spectacle, though in a Financial Times interview last month said he had no plans to move elsewhere. J圠 Anderson, who was appointed creative head of Loewe in 2014, is another member of the LVMH stable who could be in the running.虽然如此,路威酩轩旗下另一知名品牌纪梵希(Givenchy)的创意总监里卡尔多舠希(Riccardo Tisci)是显而易见的候选对象。他刚在纽约举办自己的时装展,以此来庆祝自己担任纪梵希创意总监10周年,尽管上月接受英国《金融时报》的访谈时,他说自己只想呆在纽约,无意前往别处。2014年出任罗意威(Loewe)创意总监的J∠圠褠德森(JW Anderson)也是路威酩轩的麾下大将,可能脱颖而出接任迪奥创意总监。Phoebe Philo is almost certain to be in the mix. The 41-year-old British designer was appointed creative head and board member of LVMH-owned Céline in 2008, where she has transformed the label into one of the most influential and desirable modern luxury houses of recent years.英国设计师菲比菲罗(Phoebe Philo)几乎肯定也是其中一个候选对象。41岁的她2008年出任路威酩轩旗下Céline创意总监兼董事,她把Céline成功打造成近几年中最具影响力以及最受欢迎的现代奢侈品牌之一。Were she to get the job, she would be the first woman in the role since the house’s foundation.如果她接任迪奥创意总监,将成为迪奥有史以来首位女掌门。Moreover, her most recent show, for SS16, with its nipped waist jackets, fit-and-flare summer coats and modest, shapely silhouettes, suggested a quiet affinity with Christian Dior’s postwar New Look.此外,她最新推出的2016年春夏时装展上的掐腰夹克、修身大摆夏季外套和曲线优雅的裙装,与迪奥战后一直推行的“新风貌”(New Look)时尚风格可以说异曲同工。Was that merely coincidence or a perfectly positioned CV? All Dior is saying is: “no comment”.这一切仅仅只是巧合、还是一份绝佳的履历?迪奥对此的全部回应只是“不予置评”。 /201510/406684At dinner the other night with 50 partners in a corporate law firm, I looked around the room and noticed something alarming. I was one of the oldest people in it.有一天,我和一家从事公司法事务的律师事务所的50位合伙人共进晚餐。环顾四周,我发现了一件令人惊恐的事情——我在里面属于年纪最大的一拨。Where were all the lawyers in their late fifties and early sixties? I put the question to the man sitting next to me, who said they had mostly been eased out. The trouble with the law, he explained, is that it takes its toll on you, and if you’ve been at it for 30 years it is almost impossible to hold on to any sense of urgency. By the time you reach your mid-fifties, it is usually time to start thinking about going.那些六十岁上下的律师们都去哪儿了?我问坐在我旁边的人,他说这些人大多都离开了。他解释道,法律行业的问题就在于它会给人带来负面影响。如果你已经在这个行业里干了30年,那你基本上无法再保持任何紧迫感了。等你到了55岁左右,通常就会考虑离开了。There was only one exception to this rule, he went on, and that was lawyers in their fifties who had recently been divorced and were starting again with mortgages and young children. They had all the experience of their years — and all the drive of someone 30 years younger. They were propelled by the need to make a vast amount of money but, instead of having a lifetime in which to do it, they had a mere decade. The combination of extreme wisdom and extreme hunger made them unbeatable.但是这种规律只有一种例外,他接着说,也就是那些刚离婚不久,背着抵押贷款、带着年幼子女重新开始的五十多岁的律师。他们不仅有着多年来积累的经验,还跟比他们年轻30岁的律师一样干劲十足。他们被挣大钱的需求驱使着。可是,不像那些年轻的律师有一辈子的时间来挣钱,他们只有10年。极度的智慧与极度的渴求相结合,这让他们不可战胜。I don’t think the man realised quite how well this divorce-is-great-for-your-career argument was going down with me. In the past six months I have a) separated from my husband, b) bought a wildly expensive house, and c) been feeling more than usually keen at work.我觉得那个人一定没有想到,这番“离婚有助事业”的论断如何深得我心。过去的6个月里,我1)和丈夫分居了,2)买了一套贵得离谱的房子,3)感觉工作热情不同寻常地高涨。Until that minute it hadn’t occurred to me that the three things were connected, but then I saw what was perfectly obvious: a) and b) have caused c).我之前一直没想到这三件事是联系在一起的,但那一刻我发现这再明显不过了:正是前两点导致了第三点。Everyone will tell you that divorce is ruinous to a career. It makes you so unhinged that you can’t think straight. A couple of years ago the hedge fund boss Paul Tudor Jones told a conference that as soon as he hears that any of his managers is going through a divorce he stops them trading. The emotional turmoil renders them too unpredictable to be trusted with anyone else’s money.每个人都会告诉你,离婚会对事业造成毁灭性打击。离婚会让人心智失常,以至于无法正常思考。几年前,对冲基金老板保罗图德琼斯(Paul Tudor Jones)在一次会议上说,只要他听说公司任何一个经理正经历离婚,他就会让他们暂停交易工作。情感的波动让他们的言行难以预料,因此无法放心让他们管理别人的资金。That may be so. But then again, it may not be. People, marriages and divorces come in many varieties, yet all divorces have one thing in common — they make you poor. Or at least they make you poorer than you were before. To comfortable, middle-aged professionals, feeling a little short of funds can be an unwelcome shock, and the effect of it can, in the right circumstances, be agreeably galvanising.可能是这样,但也可能不是。人、婚姻和离婚多种多样,但是所有的离婚都有一个共同点——让你变穷。或者至少让你变得比以前穷。对于过着舒适生活的中年专业人士来说,觉得手头稍微紧点就可能带来非常难受的冲击。在合适的条件下,这种难受会变为一种有益的激励。For me, it has meant that any thought of sloping gently towards retirement is out of the window. And because there is to be no such sloping, I can no longer allow myself the luxury of mild disillusionment. Instead, I am applying myself to the job, and, to my amazement and delight, find that instead of feeling trapped or sorry for myself, I’m rather enjoying it. The work itself has not changed a bit, but I am doing it with more conviction.对我而言,这意味着混日子等退休的想法都不在考虑之列了。因为不会再有混日子的事情,我也就不能再允许自己沉浸于轻微的幻灭之中。相反,我投入到工作之中。让我感到惊讶和喜悦的是,我非但没有觉得自己受缚于工作或很可怜,反而觉得很享受。工作本身一点也没有变,但是我工作的时候更深信不疑了。This may not alter the quality of the finished product, but it does affect how it feels to be making it. Every time I am offered an additional piece of paid work, I no longer think: I’m not sure I can be bothered; I think: let me at it.这可能不会改变工作成果的质量,但的确改变了工作时的感觉。每当我被指派一份额外的有偿工作时,我不会再想:我不确定自己愿不愿意费那个麻烦;而是会想:让我来做吧。I am not saying that everyone in their sixth decade should ditch their spouse to give their flagging careers a bit more oomph. Neither am I suggesting that everyone who gets divorced can look forward to this kind of professional dividend. Some people are so poleaxed by the misery of it all that they can hardly crawl into the office, let alone feel relatively gung-ho once they get there.我的意思不是说,每个人都该在六十多的时候抛弃他们的配偶,来给他们日渐衰微的事业注入一点热情。我也不是说每个离婚的人都有望在职业上获得这样的意外好处。有些人被这些痛苦彻底击垮,几乎连勉强去办公室上班都做不到,更不用提感到工作劲头更足了。Instead, what this proves is that the link between boredom, money and motivation is not what I thought it was. I used to think it was obvious why people in their fifties felt stale— it was because 30 years was simply too long to be doing the same thing.相反,这正明了无聊、金钱和动力这三者之间的联系不是我之前所想的那样。我过去一直认为五十多岁的人感到厌倦的原因很明显——30年做同一件事实在太长了。I now discover it is more complicated than that. People in professional jobs work for three reasons: money, status and the interest of the work itself. The main reason those in their fifties become sluggish is not that their minds are going, nor that the work itself has become too monotonous. It is that neither money nor status move them as they used to and the interest of the job is not enough to keep them going on its own.可现在我发现,事实比这更复杂。专业人士为了三个原因工作:金钱、地位和对工作本身的兴趣。他们在五十多岁变得懈怠的主要原因,既不是因为他们的脑力在减退,也不是因为工作本身变得太单调乏味,而是不管金钱还是地位都不能像从前那样驱使他们了,而只靠对工作的兴趣并不足以撑他们继续保持对工作的热情。You would have to be a most peculiar person to be prepared to stay up all night doing the legal slog on an Mamp;A deal for the sheer fun of it. And even though journalism is arguably more enjoyable than corporate law, it is not so fabulously entertaining that I would consider doing it if I didn’t have to.如果一个人仅仅是为了其中的乐趣而彻夜工作,处理一桩并购案相关的法务工作,那这个人一定怪到家了。虽然可以说记者工作比公司法工作更有意思,但是也没有有趣到哪怕没有必须做的原因,我也会考虑做着玩。Almost all the scientific studies will tell you that money doesn’t motivate. Yet when you have just parted company with your nest egg and lost some of the financial security you thought you had, every pay cheque becomes a minor cause of celebration — and the same old, same old work suddenly seems as fresh and full of possibility as it ever did.几乎所有的科学研究都告诉你,金钱不是动力。然而,当你刚刚失去了一笔储蓄,失去了一些你本以为享有的经济保障时,每一笔收入都能成为小小庆祝一下的理由——同样一成不变的工作突然就会像曾经那样,变得充满新鲜感和各种可能性。 /201511/412462

  

  Humans are efficient sleepers, and that#39;s why we need less sleep - seven hours - compared to as much as 14 hours a day for our closest animal relatives,人类的睡眠很有效,这也是为什么我们睡得更少,一天只睡7个小时而不是离我们最近的物种所需的多达14个小时。Researchers at Duke University compiled a database of sleep patterns of hundreds of mammals, including 21 primate species. They found that not only do humans need less sleep than chimps, macaques and lemurs, we spend a greater percentage of our slumber in the deeper, more restorative stages of sleep.美国杜克大学的研究人员建立了一个几百种哺乳动物睡眠规律的数据库,其中包括21种灵长类动物。他们发现,人类睡眠时间不仅比黑猩猩、猕猴和狐猴要少,而且更多时间是沉睡在更深、更有恢复作用的阶段。That might not seem surprising in this age of electric lights and round-the-clock activities, but co-author David Samson says this shift began long before we developed artificial lighting. He traces it back to when human ancestors left their nests in the trees for sleeping on the ground.在这个有电灯和通宵工作的时代这也许并不令人惊讶。但是这份报告的共同作者大卫·萨姆森说,睡眠的这种变化早在我们发明人工照明之前就开始了。他将这一变化追溯到人类祖先离开树巢开始睡在地上的时候。The need to sleep near fire and in larger groups for warmth and safety could have allowed these early humans to get the most out of their sleep in the shortest possible time. He notes that also left more time for other activities, like learning new skills.由于睡觉时需要靠近火和更大的人群保持温暖和安全,这可能使得早期人类尽可能在最短时间内睡得最好。萨姆森提到这也留给人类更多的时间做其他活动,比如学习新技能。 /201512/415830

  Temporary face tattoos are turning freckles into a fashion statement.临时脸部贴纸使雀斑变成一种时尚宣言。A new beauty product designed to sprinkle semi-permanent freckles across anyone#39;s face has the Internet buzzing.一种能在人脸上留下半永久性雀斑的美容新产品在网上引发热议。Called ;Freck Yourself,; the cosmetic kit is essentially a set of sticky stencils accompanied by a rollerball of skin-pigmenting formula.这套化妆工具名为;自制雀斑;,实际上是一组雀斑模板贴纸和一个装有皮肤染色剂的滚珠笔。Users place a stencil where they want freckles to appear, roll the formula over it and you have freckles.使用者将贴纸贴在想要雀斑出现的部位,再用滚珠笔涂抹一番,;雀斑;就出现了。Some women have been raving about it on Twitter and Instagram.一些女性在推特和Instagram上对这款产品赞不绝口。However, women who were born with freckles are very confused about this trend.不过那些生来就有雀斑的女性对这样的时尚趋势表示很不解。 /201511/412397。

  Yan Fu (1854~1921), styled Jidao, self-assumed name Yuye in his late years, alias philosopher of Tianyan sect,was a native of Houguan (present Fuzhou) in Fujian Province. He was among the first to study in England.严复(1854~1921),字几道,晚年自号老人,别署天演宗哲学家,福州南台人,曾经作为中国第一批留学生留学英国。He attributed the sticking point of the ;Chinese Problem; to “the messy and chaotic internal affairs instead of bully and humiliation of foreign countries;.他把“中国问题”的症结归结为“不在外国的欺凌,而在内政之不修”,认为中国只有变法图强,才能挽救危亡。Therefore in order to save the nation in peril and make the national might felt once again, China had no other way out but to initiate liberal social and political reforms and self-strengthening, and learn from Western science and technology of the capitalist era.要重振中国的雄风,只有一条路可走,那就是学习西方的近代科学技术与知识。He translated large numbers of Western academic masterpieces such as introducincing the modern Western society, politics, culture and ideology, especially Darwinism, establishing his status of ;top translator of modern China;.他翻译出版了大量西方学术名著,介绍西方近代的社会、政治、文化与思想,尤其是达尔文的进化论,从而奠定了“近代中国第一译手”的地位。He wanted to acquaint the Chinese with such biological evolutionist ideas as “organic evolution and natural selection; and ;the survival of the fittest; and awaken them to the necessity of retaining the political consciousness of striving to become stronger, of competing with nature for supremacy. These ideas became powerful weapons against the ossified ideas of the feudal diehards and stimulated people#39;s demand for institutional reform and national revival.他的目的是使中国人知道“物竞天择,适者生存”的道理,唤醒中国人保种自强、与大争胜进而变法图存的政治意识。He translated the British political economist Adam Smith#39;s An Inquiry into The Nature and Causes of the Wealth of Nations, which was the most important of his translations and largest in scale.为了促进中国的富强与发展,他翻译了英国政治经济学家亚当·斯密的《原富》(今译《国民财富的性质及原因研究》),是分量最重、规模最大的一本译作。He paid a panegyric on the British philosopher Herbert Spencer#39;s vulgarization of evolutionism conformed better to the actual demand of saving the nation from extinction and self-strengthening.他特别推崇英国哲学家斯宾塞的“庸俗进化论”,翻译了他的《群学肄言》(今译《社会学研究》),认为斯宾塞对进化论所进行的庸俗化更合乎当时中国社会救亡图存的现实需要。He also translated A History of Politics, On Liberty, De l#39;Esprit des Lois, System of Logic and Pure Logic.另外,他还翻译了《社会通诠》 ,《群己权界论》、《法意》(今译《论法的精神》)、《名学》、《名学浅说》等。Yan Fu devoted all his life to the publicity of the ideology of enlightenment. He was one of the most eminent thinkers of enlightenment in modern China.严复毕生致力于启蒙思想的宣传,是近代中国最著名的启蒙思想家之一。 /201511/408355

  

  

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